We had two full days in Lisbon and left our schedule wide open to follow our mood and interests. Though spontaneous, the first day ended up being a little more structured, with visits to the aquarium (Oceanário de Lisboa) and castle (Castelo de São Jorge). The second day we did a little more wandering around the city, checking out its sights without any ticketed entries.
We took the E15 tram to Belém, a district in Lisbon that lies along the river on the west side of the city. Though a bit on the outskirts of the city, Belem is a really fascinating neighborhood with some of Lisbon’s most famous sites. While on the tram we had a little bit of panic over which stop to get off, but ended up at Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, which was the perfect starting spot to see the Belém highlights.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Construction of the beautiful 16th century monastery was financed by a tax on spices. The monastery took over 100 years to build, thanks to its size and ornate architectural style. We chose not to go inside but enjoyed walking around the grand exterior.
Padrão dos Descobrimentos
Across the street is the impressive Padrão dos Descobrimentos, or Monument to the Discoveries. It was a little confusing to get there, as we had to find the pedestrian tunnel that went under the very busy road, but we eventually figured it out. The monument is a tribute to the great explorers of Portugal. The 170 foot concrete statue of a caravel, or Portuguese sailing ship, features 32 men who played a significant role in the Age of Discoveries, with Henry the Navigator leading the way. The details on the limestone figures are really impressive, as is the overall structure of the monument. From the sides it is clearly the prow of a sailing ship, but from the back it takes the form of a sword within a cross.
We walked along the water towards Belém Tower, stopping to enjoy a street performer with a piano-playing marionette, a quick work-out at a random outdoor fitness area, and lunch at an Italian place.
Torre de Belém
Torre de Belém was built from 1514-1520 to defend the city against naval attacks from the Tagus River. The tower seems to float in the river but is actually built on a small island. Originally located closer to the center of the river, earthquakes, erosion, and time have shifted the shore so that the tower is now quite close to land. The fort is made up of a 4 story tower and 2 level bastion. While the fort was impressive aesthetically, it was not impressive defensively. In 1580 the fort came under attack by the Spanish navy and fell in just 4 hours. As a result, King Philip II of Spain was crowned King of Portugal and the countries were united under Spanish rule for 60 years.
The fort was my favorite site in Lisbon. I love the way it rises from the river as if it is floating. I love the details of the ornately decorated structure – twisted ropes, coats of arms, and even a rhinoceros adorn the exterior. And its small size fascinates me – did they really think this tiny tower could protect the city of Lisbon? The inside of the tower was closed when we were there due to covid restrictions but we loved the exterior views. And the kids had a blast on the shoreline, daring the surprisingly big waves to splash them (which they did!).
Elevador de Santa Justa
Our trip to Belém took up most of our second day in Lisbon but we saw some other great sights throughout out 2.5 days in Lisbon. One of the most unique attractions in the city is the Elevador de Santa Justa. The historic Neo-gothic wrought iron elevator transports people 45 meters straight up, where they can access a viewing platform and walkway to the street in the neighborhood above. Built in 1902, the lift connects the Baixa and Bairro Alto districts, offering people an alternative to walking the steep hills of Lisbon’s city streets. It is really quite a sight and an ingenious way to get people from one level of the city to another.
Time Out Market
We went to dinner at Time Out Market one night. Though touristy and overwhelming (and not very covid-safe-feeling), it was a cool concept and worth visiting. The 40+ restaurants, kiosks, and bars that fill the Mercado da Ribeira building are really just a glorified food court, but the quality of food is surprisingly high. You can find dishes from Michelin starred chefs in one stall of the market, and also find amazing burgers, hot dogs, and pizza right next door. There is something for everyone here but you have to be willing to fight the crowds to get to it.
The Streets of Lisbon
As in any city, some of the best sights aren’t really sights at all but just the streets and squares that make the city unique. We loved just wandering around the cobblestone streets, ducking into old churches or shops here and there. There are statues and old buildings around every corner so don’t be in such a hurry to get somewhere that you overlook where you already are.
Overall we really enjoyed our time in Lisbon. It’s a great city with so much to see and do and we admittedly only scratched the surface. Still, I think if I had it to do over again, we would have spent one less night here and added on an extra night to the Algarve. By this point in the trip we were fairly worn out and I think the kids would have appreciated a beach/pool day in Lagos more than an extra day traipsing around a city, even a city as cool as Lisbon. But all in all I was really happy with what we did in Lisbon and felt like we got a good feel for the city.
